Pagani de Marchi winery has become an excellent producer in the territory of the Tuscan Coast; the last restyling proofs the maturity achieved and clear ideas, where Sangiovese is blended with international varieties. A convincing range of wines results from a non-interventionist approach and some original choice. It deserves to be visited and their wines are, no doubt, a good deal.
Pagani de Marchi is located in Casale Marittimo, a small Tuscan village in the province of Pisa, just 6 km north of Bolgheri and 8 km from the Tyrrhenian coast. The Etruscans lived here in the 7th and 6th centuries BC, there is an archaeological site right inside the property. But Pia Pagani De Marchi didn’t know it, when she bought the Casa Nocera farm 50 years ago to make it a holiday resort. For 30 years this place has been nothing but the summer residence of the Swiss Pagani De Marchi family.
At the end of the 1990s, the success of the wines from nearby Bolgheri turned on the desire to make wine from the 8 hectares of land around the house. Pia Pagani De Marchi’s architect brother designed the cellar and Bolgheri’s wine maker Michele Satta was hired as an oenological consultant. The first wines were made with the 2001 harvest, from vineyards planted from scratch in 1997 with Merlot, Cabernet and Sangiovese. In the township of Casale Marittimo there were no other vineyards at the time; perhaps they existed in Etruscan times, who knows?
The excavation of the land brought to light archeological finds. A real Etruscan necropolis was found, which has turned into a protected archaeological site. One of the tombs stands out: that of the so-called “Principe Guerriero” (i.e. “Warrior Prince”), which will be used as the name of the most renowned Pagani de Marchi’s wine.
There first wines were so much appreciated that encouraged the family to grow. They planted new vineyards; in 2010 some Vermentino was also planted to produce a white wine and they converted to organic farming.
Finally in 2019 Pia’s son Matteo Pagani has taken over the control of the business. He defined the production strategy with new ideas, modified the blends, renewed the style of the wines and rejuvenated the winery’s image. From the beginning, the winery had adopted an Etruscan symbol as a logo and had chosen names and pictures of the archaeological site for the labels. Matteo maintains this inspiration, but gives it a new perspective with a minimal and effective design. The wines also changed; as he pursues finesse rather than strength. If the wines of the early days were concentrated (as was common in those years), today Matteo’s aim is different: the number of pumping overs has been reduced to avoid over-extraction; balance and elegance are pursued, as I was able to ascertain during my tasting in the cellar on February 1st.
The fermentations take place mostly in steel vats with temperature control and with spontaneous yeasts (except for the white wine, for which selected yeasts are used). Red wines mature in light-roasted barriques with modest use of new wood. Production stands at 35,000 bottles from 6.5 hectares of vineyards; it means pursuing quality rather than quantity. The wines are truly convincing and above all they represent the territory of the Tuscan coast very well. The range of reds convinced me especially; they stands out for cleanliness and authenticity. From the graceful Montaleo based on Sangiovese to the pure Merlot Casa Nocera, they are all very precise and made with grace.
MY TASTING NOTES
Vermentino BLUMEA 2021 is very perfumed, floral with minty aromas; precise in taste, well-balanced with a remarkable savory finish.
MONTALEO 2020 is deliciously easy to drink, it is obtained with 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet, with no oak aging. It gives an idea of purity, it has floral and fruity aromas, reminiscent of violets, blackcurrants, and pink grapefruit; its texture is silky, has delicate tannins, medium body and fresh acidity.
PRINCIPE GUERRIERO is a blend of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet mad in clay amphora. The 2020 vintage has an intriguing scent, a melody of strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, Mediterranean scrub, even a spicy touch. The taste is harmonious: silky tannins strengthen the midpalate and the acidity contribute to the long juicy finish. It is a careful and successful vinification in amphorae.
OLMATA 2018 is a blend of 50% merlot, 30% cabernet and 20% sangiovese with one year of barrel aging. It has balsamic smell and baked fruit mixed with spicy and oaky flavors. It is softly textured thanks to perfectly ripe tannins and mild acidity; it has a sustained spicy and fruity aftertaste.
CASA NOCERA 2017 is 100% Merlot aged in oak. It has a deep purple color. Nose is floral at first, followed by lots of fruit: from blueberry to apricot, it reminds of elderberries, dark chocolate, cardamom and a hint of forest floor. The taste is smooth with subtle tannins, it vibrates thanks to an unexpected acidity and a savory sensation. Its finish is long and spicy. The 2011 vintage, tasted almost 12 years after the harvest, has a vivid garnet color, aroma of jams and cigars. It still has a lot of freshness and well-defined tannins with a silky texture, it is tasty and lingering.
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